I came home from work last night, decided it was the perfect day to go surfing to celebrate summer solstice and ended up paddling through barely-there waves in a spring suit when it was cold and windy. This post by Salt Surf perfectly encapsulates my experience yesterday trying to create the perfect moment and in return being humbled by mother nature and learning to just respect the moment.
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Had this fantasy that i'd surf perfect glassy waves tonight, watch the sunset, catch that perfect wave… Instead it was choppy onshore, barely-there waves, and a group of "buddies" that literally cracked a Mountain Dew in the lineup. Halfway through i gave up and decided to body surf instead. Wasn't exactly the International Surfing Day / Summer solstice i imagined, but i know there's some deep metaphor there somewhere… Something about how surfing mimics life and how its never perfect or something like that… Ergh.